Over Yonder: San Antonio

As a sixth generation Texan, I felt it was my moral obligation to take my 9-year-old daughter to San Antonio. Plus she's a huge history buff and really wanted to see the Alamo. Check and check.

So, we took a long weekend late this summer and made the five hour trek down from Dallas. It helped that one of my good friends was born and raised there, so we had an insider's vantage point.

San Antonio ... what happened? You done growed up! I hadn't been to the Alamo City in years. Like many people, I knew San Antone for the Alamo, the Riverwalk and SeaWorld. But there's a cool, non-touristy side of San Antonio that has emerged, and finding some culinary gems made the trip even more fun as a grownup.

Here are our recommendations. Yes, some are standbys -- I mean, your Texas card might be revoked if you miss the Alamo. But there are some new spots that we sure had fun discovering.

Pearl Brewery: My friend lives near St. Mary's in an up-and-coming area much like Oak Cliff in Dallas (pre-Oak Cliff as it exists today), just a 10 minute walk from the revitalized Pearl Brewery. This mixed use complex includes fantastic restaurants, residences, a farmer's market on the weekend, and access to the Riverwalk. We got up early Saturday morning for breakfast at Bakery Lorraine, an authentic French bakery with croissants to die for. My daughter considers herself a chocolate croissant connoisseur, and the ones at Bakery Lorraine had her discerning approval. My prosciutto and egg on toast with fontina cheese and arugula was a delicious start to our morning (and the latte didn't hurt either). Get an order of macarons to go.


The Alamo: After a hearty breakfast we Ubered it to the Alamo. However, we found out that we could have walked along the River Walk all the way to downtown. Maybe next time when it is not August in San Antonio.

OK, so I've been to the Alamo at least 5 times in my lifetime, but this was my first visit as an adult. Go early when it opens to beat the rush. And go see the 20-minute video produced by the History Channel. It will make a non-Texan feel Texan pride -- and you will realize how wussy modern folk really are. Of course, we had to get a coon-skin cap. I mean, it was to honor Davey Crockett. Here's an insider tip: A coonskin hat in 100 degree August heat is not a great fashion choice. But she sure looked cute. Also, if you blow out your flip flop at the Alamo, there's a place right across the street where you can buy a replacement pair that changes colors in the sun (true story) for under $20.

Yes, this was purchased after an
 uncertain number of margaritas. 

The Mercado: We hiked from the Alamo to The Mercado where we bought one marionette named Pedro and a cowboy hat made from recycled Miller Lite cartons. It might have been due to the heat ...or the influence of the frozen margarita (s) I had at 11 a.m. as we walked along the RiverWalk (P.S. -- open containers are OK on the RiverWalk). The highlight, of course, was lunch at Mi Tierra -- one of our haunts in college because it is open 24 hours. Their green chicken enchiladas are so good, and I probably could (and possibly did) eat about 100 of their housemade flour tortillas. We went home and took a little siesta after all that walking and carbs. But so worth it!










The DoSeum: For real, this museum is the best kids' museum I have ever been to. Yup, better than the Perot. I said it. Everything, and I mean everything is hands-on. The coolest exhibit was the spy room where you had to find extremely well hidden clues in a mock house -- we're talking secret panels and doors hidden in furniture. Where was this stuff when I was a kid?? My daughter enjoyed cooling off in the manmade stream outside and the outdoor water play area. You could honestly stay the entire day and still not experience everything.

Roasted beet and fresh mint ice cream
and dewberry corn cobbler

Lick Ice Cream: Ice cream in the summer is a given, right? We headed over to this clever spot in the Pearl Brewery complex to try some of their out-of-the-box ice cream flavors. Roasted beet and fresh mint was refreshing and not too sweet. Does eating beet ice cream count toward your daily vegetable consumption?

Part 2: The Road Trip home

So, no road trip to the Hill Country is complete without a few traditional stops on the way home. Head up 281 for an incredibly scenic drive.

 Enchanted Rock: Tip -- they do not sell bottled water, so bring your own (although they do have a water fountain where you can fill your bottles). We learned this the hard way. And get there early so you don't evaporate when the sun hits midday.

Coopers Barbecue in Llano: This is a long-standing tradition in my family. No frills barbecue, but it is one of the best. Everything is by the pound, and they have every kind of meat you could possibly smoke. Pork, brisket, ribs, chicken, turkey, sausage and cabrito. She went caveman on the ribs.

Finger lickin' good ribs. Carnivores' paradise!

Cooper's is no frills -- you buy the meat, they set you up with beans, white bread and jalapenos.
And, of course lots of paper towels.

So, you are still sick full from stuffing your face at Coopers. No worries. There's always room for dessert, right? Especially when it's pie from The Koffee Kup in Hico. Get the Doctor's Office -- vanilla cream cheese pie filling on a graham cracker crust topped with pecans and coconut. Or the standby coconut creme never disappoints -- especially with mile-high meringue.

By now you should be appropriately stuffed from eating your way through the Hill Country. Congratulations! You have maintained your Texan status.

Until next time -- happy trails!

Kate